Goat Rental Service

and other services...

This entire website deals with the FlockWorks goat rental service.  Why is there a specific page (and parts of other pages) attempting to qualify and quantify our services? 

One of our biggest challenges is trying to make sure everyone's expectations are on the same page.  

Our Quote Request Page (and future self quote page) has sections where you can indicate what type of service you are desiring. 

For years, nearly everyone simply choose "Clear Vegetation" as their option, but when you actually talked to them, what they meant by that could (and often did) vary quite a bit from one person to another.  We have since been trying to better define terms so that people's plans for their land and their goals can be meet.  


Simply put, we can run the goats several different ways.  It's true that the ways are more similar than different, but if we can't get to the point of understanding each other, the chance of meeting the goals is rather low... at least in the short term.  

Land Management 
Quantifying Expectations

In order to provide you the service that you expect, this, in many ways, is the most important part of getting started with the goats in an efficient way!  Hopefully we can understand your expectations and have a chance to meet them.  If we aren't speaking the same language, the chances of success are much less. 

These are just the general categories for discussion and calculation purposes.  For the purposes of our new self quote, if you have a different goal than listed in one of these, simply choose the closest one and, if you decide to use the goats, we will discuss your plans and go over your specific goals.  

It's probably obvious, but these go from least to the most intense managment methods. So, in general, one (1) will have the largest fence sections (paddocks) areas and six (6) the smallest.  Same with concept (but to a lesser degree) with amount of time the goats are placed in a given section.  Keep in mind, we will almost never plan to have the goats in any given section longer than six (6) days.  

For an area where invasive species are just beginning to take hold.  Or perhaps a small percentage of some other undesirable plant, like poison ivy. 

When you want to utilize the goats to begin to manage invasive species.  Goats tend to prefer invasive to native plants.  With this option chosen AND a mix of native plants and invasives, we run the goats through the area fairly quickly.  The idea is that the goats are more likely to defoliate the invasive plants and less likely to defoliate the native plants. 

PLEASE NOTE: Goats are browsers!  They generally take a bite one one plant... perhaps another bite or two, and then often move on to the next plant.  All plants will be munched on by the goats, it's just more likely that their total energy will focus on invasives.  

Usually this land managment method calls for goats to be run through the target area quickly two to three times per year for the first year and once or twice per year afterwards.  The type of invasive plant matters here as well.  Some drop seeds that stay viable for years, even DECADES after the plant is gone.  By-the-wat, basically none of the seeds that the goats consume will be viable, and of course, any of the seed-making parts that they eat are not going to produce seeds.  

Keeping pasture/field/or lawn area clear of brush vegetation.  Almost always, the goats are run through once or twice per year. Goats prefer brush to grass. Brush struggles with being grazed/browsed. Grass thrives with being grazed. (as long as it's not grazed too low... which goats do not naturally do.)

This choice has the goats in rather large (propionate to the number of goats) sections (paddocks) and moving on with basically no time for the goats to begin to focus on any mature trees.

You want to utilize the goats to begin to manage an overgrown area and I'm looking the best, healthiest way to do that without chemicals, over time. The vegetation mix is not terribly important here. Often this option is chosen when someone has woods or forest and is looking to clear the understory while affecting desirable trees a little as possible.

This choice has the goats in medium sized (propionate to the number of goats) sections (paddocks) and moving on with little time for the goats to begin to focus on mature trees.

This is probably the most chosen option. We get a request to "clear" as much vegetation as reasonable while running the herd through with proportional sized sections (paddocks) and a normal pace. Basically, defoliate everything they can reach and eat naturally.

With this option chosen someone (us, you, landscape company, etc.) can come in and work much more easily and the brushy-type plants are put into a state of initial distress.   

Many people manage with this method the first year, and switch over to a less intensive method in following years. 

There is very little difference between this and option five. 

We *push* the goats a little bit harder than number four.  The sections are often a bit smaller. 

As always, we observe the effects.  We ask that you observe the goats working as well.  We adjust section (paddock) size and frequency of moves based on these observations.  

Basically, you'd like everything that's not a significant tree gone. 

NOTE: We typically turn these jobs down.  There is a place for this, but goats do not naturally eat especially low to the ground (usually not under 4" - 6") unless they are really "pushed" - given no other choice of what to eat.  And goats are not beaver, so we, or someone, has to work with the goats to cut brush remnants, stalks, stems, young trees, etc.  As we get busier, the extra optional services (all our cutting) are more and more difficult to accomplish.  This option is has a 99% chance of being turned down for any job outside of our normal service area, unless it is very, very small.... like 1/4 acre or less. 

The main reasons we often decline jobs with this land managment goal: 
1. It takes TONS more intensive managment!  Say for an acre of heavy brush (think, jungle like... Can't even see into the brush more than a few feet) the area would have to be divided into many, many sections... perhaps as many as eight or ten.  This is an enormous amount of more work, more wear to our electric net fencing and more cost to the landowner.  The same goal can be accomplished over time without so much pain, effort and gear wear. 
2. Typically this goal is better accomplished by a bulldozer.  At least if you're hoping to have it all done in one pass.    

IF you choose this option, understand unless we or someone else does the manual cutting afterwards (typically a few weeks afterwards, when the plants use up some of their energy try to re-foliate) then the option is not going to be nearly as effective. 

Optional services:

  • Weed Eating.  Going through and cutting grasses with a trimmer / weed whacker.  
  • Brush Cutting.  Going through and cutting stemmy plant stalks with blade on trimmer /brush cutter or an articulated hedge trimmer.  
  • Clipping.  This is simply quick mowing of remaining vegetation to achieve a more uniform (still not landscaped, per say.) look OR to "knock down" remaining plants and stems to further damage those plants and achieve a more lawn-type area in the future.   
  • Mow/ Bush Hog.  Cutting/shredding larger areas with a walk behind mower or bush hog. This can include sapling stalks up to (depending on species) one inch thick.  
  • Cutting of Woody vegetation.  Simply using a lopper and cutting saplings at ground level. 
  • Stacking of Woody vegetation.  Making piles that can be wildlife habitat, or campfire kindling when they dry out.  
  • Tree Pruning. Simply pruning the lower branches of trees with a hand held lopper. 
  • Pole Pruning.  Cutting branches or vines with a pole pruner.  
  • Vine Severing.  Cutting off the vines on significant trees near the base of the tree when they are too large to do anything else with.  
  • Dropping Trees dead/dying no risk trees.  This is limited where it is available.  It has to be basically no risk to the goats, fence, shelter or trailer, etc.  And of course no risk to any buildings, vehicles or anything else of value on the property.  
  • Debris Removal.  Taking branches and sticks away for disposal.  (Our default the majority of the time, we stack them in piles for wildlife.  See above.)  
  • Trash Removal.  We commonly pick up small pieces of random trash as we go, but this is for large amounts of trash.  We've come across things that no one knew were there that were quite significant, like couches, car bumpers, bikes and more.   This service is not available for anything classified as hazardous. 
  • Running the Goats.  When areas or sections to be grazed/browsed are not directly adjacent to each other, we have to move the goats in some way.  If possible, we want to avoid loading them on a trailer and moving them.  All indications are that the goats love every part of their job, with the exception of trailer loading.  

    So, we typically erect the same electric net fencing and run them from one area to another.  Occasionally, when there is very low risk (low density development, low/no traffic, very little or no tempting vegetation, etc.) we may just run them out in the open.  What may not be obvious is we can't set up the net fencing on or across a road, driveway or parking area.  The spikes have to go into the ground to keep the fence up.  We have used people, the community, to hold the fence up and enjoy the goats moving, but that has to have a lot of coordination.  
  • Double Fencing.  In some public jobs it is deemed important to protect the public from the electric net fencing.  We have never had a municipality, school, etc. request this option, but goat rental companies in some large cities get asked to install the second layer of fence regularly. 

    We can quote it as an option, but actually see it as less safe in some regards. 

    First, the fence in public areas is always signed with warnings.  Second, touching electric net fencing is VERY painful, but very safe.  It is a high voltage (we always keep 7,000+ volts on the fence.) LOW amperage, intermittent shock.  The power is sent through approximately once a second for just a flash of a moment.  The pulse itself is only around 150 microseconds (0.15 seconds) long and meets national and international standards. 

    Second, a second fence does not keep people out and someone could get in between the two fences. (They have to be far enough away to not short out the electric fence.)  If this were a child or a pet, the scare of the shock and the narrow channel could make it more likely for there to be further shocks and less likely for anyone to see it happening.  One quick shock is.... well, shocking!  Depending on footwear it can range from feeling like a large static shock to feeling like a especially horrible bee sting with aching afterwards.  But the risk of actual damage is almost zero.  There has been one known death worldwide in the last decade.  And it wasn't one shock, it was a child repeatedly shocked.  
  • Poison Ivy Vine Cutting. Cutting higher poison ivy and dropping it to the goats, usually from trees. 
  • Poison Ivy root pulling.  After the goats go through, ideally when the plant tries to start to regrown, pulling up and out the ground level vines and the significant in ground roots.  This method puts enormous stress on the plant and strongly hinders future recovery and growth. 
  • Shelter.  When Goats need shelter, we provide it as part of the agreement, not an option.  No extra charge.  When people *think* goats need shelter out of loving sensibilities OR due to public pressure, than this is an optional service IF the topography allows it.  
  • Liability insurance.  Historically, liability insurance is challenging to obtain for any non-common business.  Years ago we could obtain liability insurance on a per job, day, week or month basis as a landscape contractor.  This option has gone away and is not currently available. 
  • Protecting plants.  Two options. 

    We can wrap plants.  Wrapping plants is not guaranteed!  Goats have 168 hours/10,080 minutes/604,800 seconds a week to get into trouble.  Wrapping plants with snow fence, burlap, or any other material we have found can keep them out, but more than likely they will find a way in or under it eventually.  Even though we commonly only keep goats in one section for a few days (1-6), that's still a lot of time for the goats to try their luck.  But, it's quick and inexpensive.  

    OR we can fence out plants/trees.  But this inevitably fences out other vegetation and is the more expensive option.  But, the goats are thoroughly trained to the electric net fence, so when it it needs to be bulletproof, that is the method.      
  • Pulling vines roots.  Just like poison ivy vine pulling, but lower cost due to less protective gear and clean-up supplies. 
  • Seed spreading.  In some settings, at some times of the year, it can be effective to spread seeds a day or so before the goats are done a section.  They will walk the seeds in, causing seed-to-soil contact and help establish desirable plants.  Goats strongly avoid eating from the ground so, almost always, minimal or no seeds will be consumed by the goats.         
  • Fence Breaching.  If you have existing fence that you don't want walked on/over and we need to fence your fence (quite common), this is an option to reduce the chance of the goats from climbing on your fence.  This goats don't typically climb on traditional fence unless they are pushed quite hard in an section.  
  • Creek Crossing.  We work in many settings that have streams, creeks and even rivers.  If the water is wide enough, it can act as one side of the goat fenced section, which lowers your overall cost.... Less fencing!  If it's a small stream, or if the section extends to the other side, the stream will 
  • Pond Fencing.  We specialize in fencing ponds!  Goats are a great tool for pond bank managment!  We have many ponds on our property and some of the banks were completely obscured by vegetation for decades!  The goats make a tremendous difference!  Goats are MUCH lighter than cows, etc and seldom, if ever, cause any issues to the bank of the pond. 

    We are able to fence out into the pond far enough for the goats to stay in.  In well-built ponds, this is typically only a few feet.  Ponds should slope rapidly, 2:1 or 3:1 ratios along the shore and this is what is usually is in place in modern ponds.  Older ponds, even if they had step banks, have usually settled.  Sometimes we have to wade out 15' or 20' to be sure of keeping the goats in.  We also have to take into account if there is commonly any water height fluctuation.  
  • Distripotion.  When goats sleep in one site for day-after-day, their droppings tend to build up in the same place.  With the way that we manage goats, this only tends to happen when we use shelters or housing AND have other circumstances that keep the herd in the area for a longer-than-average time.  Distipotion is simply scattering the droppings.  Goat droppings are like rabbit pellets.  Generally neat and odor free.... unless they build up extensively.  
  • Etc.  What else would you like to see happen with your project?  Ask, perhaps we have a solution. 
Mailing Address:

PO Box 207
Roxbury, PA 17251


Physical Address: 
11777 Forge Hill Road
Orrstown, PA 17244


Contact:

Email: info@FlockWorks.us 
Phone: (717) 417-8683
(You can also text us.) 

Links:
Site Map (90+% Rebuilt)
  • Hire Goats (Goat Rental Directory: Find other Goat Rental Companies.)
  • GoatWorks (Learn to manage your own goats similarly.) 
  • Historical FlockWorks Website

Feedback:

Please send us your ideas, bug reports, suggestions! Any feedback would be appreciated.

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