FlockWorks

Frequently asked questions - Electric Net Fencing 
This page is here mostly to benefit others who rent out their goats or who want to manage their goats the same (or similar) way that we do. In fact, increasingly this site has more and more content to help people get started renting their own goats.  NOTE: This is in the process of changing.  Moving content like this to: GoatWorks

Electric net fencing is amazing stuff! You can contain, and keep out, most anything with the correct training and techniques. We've fencing "hills" so steep that you needed a rope to go up and down. There is almost nothing that can't be accomplished once you are familiar with the fencing. What this means, if almost anywhere can become pasture and parasites can be managed like never before!

Questions are populating, but in the mean time, here is a link (PDF) to our ever growing white-paper on electric net fencing. This was put together with FlockWorks documentation as a foundation, but also with input from other goat rental professionals from all over the country. It is a work-in-progress document.... And it is written by and mostly for, goat rental professionals.

• Does electric net fencing really work?
  This is the question we get quite a lot. Usually along with someone talking about a neighbor that tried it or their bad experience with it....
  
  The fence HAS to be energized all the time and kept HOT! Like 7,000+ volts hot, It is not a physical barrier. If it is not on the goats can just walk right through/over it. If animals come across the netting without the negative reinforcement of the energizer's shock, they are going to be very likely to try again. They need to touch it and never want to touch it again!
• Does electric net fencing really go up in "minutes"?
  Well, this is tricky, because yes, it really only does take minutes, but usually what is implied is that one person can put up an entire paddock in a very short period of time. It is more complicated than that most of the time.
  
  If you are in a field and there are no obstructions or unusual terrain, you can walk backwards fairly quickly, dropping a section of fencing with the attached post about every 12' in short order. But, in the real world, for best results there is a lot more to it than just laying out the fence and walking back the other way while putting the posts in the ground.
  
  It is much more effective to clear your path (often refereed to as "lines", "fence lines" or sometimes "lanes") before hand. (see below for some reasons why) This takes either specific measuring or enough extra posts and fence where the exact length is not crucial. Most people do not have the luxury to start with that. And even so, it still takes time to get a nice clear line for the fence.
  
  All transitions from a straight line should be supported, this takes time. Outside corners should be supported with stakes (like tent stakes) and cord/string, at a minimum. For any inside corners, which generally should be avoided, you have to get creative because using the same support method in the grazing area will have the goats rubbing up against the cords and taking the fence down.
  
  Any change in elevation is likely to need additional posts. Unless your fence line and where the built-in fence posts are just happen to hit exactly, you will probably need to either hold the fence up (over ridges, tops of hills, etc) or down (at the bottom of hills, over swales, streams, etc.) for the best performance (reduces shorting out) and to keep any goats from trying to go under the bottom non-energized line.
  
  Electrical connections and testing. When you are done, you should take time and verify that each section is electrically connected and that there is adequate voltage (usually considered at least 7,000 volts for goats) on the fence.
  
  So, in conclusion. If you are setting up fence in an area with low grass and nothing unusual, it can go up amazingly quickly. But, in the real world, especially when you are moving from one paddock to another and working with limited gear, it often can take much longer than people think to get the fence in place and installed the most effective way.
• Why is clearing fence lines (also refereed to as "paths", "fence lines" or sometimes "lanes") considered by many to be so important?
  There are several reasons for this:
  1. Cleared fence lines loose less power and deliver a stronger shock, while making the energizer work less.
  2. Having the vegetation clear by the fence reduces the chance of the goats being tempted to eat through the fence.
  3. Less vegetation on the fence leads to less clicking noises indicating the energizer is working. Your smarter animals can use this to their advantage if the energizer is off and them becoming aware of it.
  4. Clear fence lines make fence inspection easier and quicker.
  5. The likelihood of turtles and other similar animals getting caught in the fence goes down slightly, and locating them easier to see.
  6. During kidding time of the year, it is much easier to train newly born kids to the fence with the space between the vegetation and the fence acting as both a warning of the fence and as a visual clue that it is there when they hit the second week (or so) and are raging around without a care in the world, as kid goats do.
• Does the fence stay up in the wind?
  Yes. To a point AND to the degree that you set it up well
  
  The corners need to be staked well. The posts need to be firmly in the ground. There are times where you may need to either use a hammer drill to set posts or carry a sledge hammer and a section of rebar (or something similar) to pre-make the holes.
  
  We are in a very windy area. When the forecast calls for gusts of wind 30-50 MPH, we know we can easily get up to 75 MPH gusts. It is very rare that our fence does not stay up. When we are up against a road or in an area with terrible ground, we will set t-posts with 2" PVC sleeves at corners and significant transition points. (we also use this set-up for inside corners)
• Does the fence really keep out predators?
  This is possibly an East Coast-centric answer... But, yes! Absolutely!
  
  We do not believe that we have ever lost a goat to an animal predator. (We did have one absolutely adorable goat go missing, but everything points to a human, not an animal. We have changed some things to reduce the chance of that happening again...)
  
  Dogs generally only touch the fence one time. With their wet noses and padded feet they REALLY feel the shock.
  
  New things and rotating/moving pasture totally freaks coyotes out. They are like dogs, but are too shy to try anything that is not in one place for a long time. This is said to be true of mountain lions also.
  
  If you have bear in the area, they can be trained. See the document above.